Fondant
Fondant is a sugar syrup that is crystallized to a smooth, creamy white mass. It is familiar as
the icing for napoleons, éclairs, petits fours, and some cakes. When applied, it sets up into a
shiny, nonsticky coating.
In the discussion of cooking sugar syrups, we stressed the importance of avoiding crystal-
lization because it causes graininess. So how can crystallization occur in a smooth icing? When
you read Procedure and Guidelines for Using Fondant, you will see this white icing starts as a
sugar solution that is as clear as water. It is crystallization that turns it white and opaque. The
key is to control the temperature so when the crystals form, they are microscopically tiny. This
is what keeps the fondant smooth and shiny. If the fondant is not made correctly, or is heated
too much when used, the crystals become larger and the icing loses its shine and smoothness.
Because it is difficult to make in the bakeshop, fondant is almost always purchased al-
ready prepared, either in the ready-to-use moist form or the dry form, which requires only the
addition of water. In an emergency (for instance, if you run out of fondant and there is no time to
get more from your supplier), flat icing can be substituted, although it will not perform as well.
For those who wish to try making fondant, a formula is included here. The purpose of the
glucose or cream of tartar is to invert some of the sugar in order to get the right amount of crys-
tallization. If none is used, the syrup will set up to be too unworkable, and it will not be smooth
and white. When an excess of glucose or cream of tartar is added, not enough crystallization
will take place and the fondant will be too soft and syrupy. Also, if the hot syrup is disturbed be
fore it cools sufficiently, large crystals will form and the fondant will not be smooth and shiny.
Ingredients
3000g sugar
750g water
570g glucose
15g cream of tartar
Method
1. Clean a marble slab well and moisten it with water.
Set 4 steel bars on the slab in the shape of a square
to hold the hot syrup when it is poured onto the
marble.
2. Combine the sugar and water in a heavy kettle and
heat to dissolve the sugar. Boil until the temperature
reaches 225°F (105°C).
3. If glucose is used, warm it. If cream of tartar is used,
disperse it in a little warm water. Add the glucose or
the cream of tartar to the boiling syrup.
4. Continue to boil the syrup until it reaches 240°F
(115°C).
5. Pour the boiling syrup onto the marble slab
and sprinkle it with a little cold water to prevent
crystallization.
6. Let the syrup cool undisturbed to about 110°F
(43°C).
7. Remove the steel bars and work the sugar with a
steel scraper, turning it from the outside to the
center. It will turn white and begin to solidify.
8. Continue to work the fondant, either by hand or by
putting it in a mixing bowl and working it slowly
with the paddle attachment, until it is smooth and
creamy.
9. Keep the fondant in a tightly covered container.
The chef was her own miracle. She saw a brilliance in food, a potential to help and heal others, a way to show them how the sublime was simply a mixture of the ordinary. It was her genius at play, seeing what the rest of us didn't. I guess that's why we called it her culinary magic and joked that her spoon was a wand carved from the spirit tree. Either way, she made us all so happy, food does that, right? It feeds the soul, brings smiles and bonds, makes everything so much better
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